T1 from Westell NID through 66 Block

Telco companies are using outside NID's as T1 Smart Jacks more and more. This cuts down on the Telco installers time from installing inside wiring, but it leaves the end user to finish the job.

Below is a how to for extending the T1 from the NID to the Demark inside the building. I will use the Westell DuetPak as the NID example.

Here is a picture of the Westell NID:


Here is a Spec Sheet for this NID.

As you can see the T1 boards are installed in the left side of the NID and routed through to the right side via an RJ45 jack.

The first thing you should do is grab a pencil and paper and mark down which pair will be the Rx and Tx to extend. What colors are going from the NID and what color the 25 pair will be spliced to. I also recommend killing the extended current by removing the RJ45 male end that is between the right and left side of the 4 posts you will be working with.

Before you start the run make sure to trace all your pair and mark them.

Using 1 and 2 (Black and Yellow) on the right side of the NID as Rx and 4,5 (Green and Red) as the Tx end.

Here is a drawn picture of the NID above with extended pair that will be spliced to the Telco 25 twisted pair and will run to the Demark 66 block inside the building.


This is with the 25 twisted pair spliced:


From here you will continue the run to the 66 Block at the demarcation point. This is what it will look like with the left side being the Telco side and the right side will run to your T1 Jack.

The right side of this 66 block will run to your T1 Jack and in the end will look like this:

In the end what is being accomplished is an extension of electricity from the origin (or close enough) to the end point. So just try to keep all the wire colors consistent so you can follow them start to finish. Mark your wires at the NID, 66 Block and label the jack when you are finished then hook it up to your router and you should be good to go.

JS

Installing a NID Splitter after a Telco NID

You can install a NID Splitter right outside your house or a commercial building if the need arises. Even though it would be just as easy to install DSL filters. If you don't have the option of installing DSL filters follow the steps below.

1. Remove the inside wiring from the Telco NID and place them away from the installation so they do not cross.
2. Create a patch or jumper cable/wire between the NID and the NID splitter. You will connect the pair to the NID where the inside wiring used to be and patch that pair to the Network side of the NID splitter creating a trunk link.
3. You then attach the pair used for voice that was once connected to the Telco NID to the Voice side of the NID Splitter.

There are now two ways of going about the last step.

4a. If you are not installing a new jack then take the extra pair from the Voice line and attach
that to the Data posts on the NID Spitter. This will have to be mirrored at the jack also.

So as an example if you have a two pair wire going to the inside of your house you would in step 3 connect the red and green pair to the Voice posts of the NID splitter and the black and yellow pair to the Data posts. Go to the jack inside and connect the black and yellow pair to where the green and red pair where previously connected.

You can also install a two port jack and put the black and yellow pair on one port and the red and green on the other. Using one for DSL and the other for the telephone.

4b. If you are installing a new jack all together then just run a pair from the Data posts on the
NID Splitter to the DSL jack and connect the modem.


As a precaution and a matter of safety I try not to connect any live wiring as I am working on it. So in this example I would disconnect the Telco side of the Telco NID or wait to connect the patch/jumper wire to the Telco NID until all work is complete.

Below is a homemade picture showing a new install:




For the 4a type of install you would remove the blue wire going to the wall jack and replace that with the grey wire using the black and yellow or any other pair instead.

JS

T568B Pin Out

This picture came to me in an installation guide that I thought would be nice to share with others and to have it when I am out on sites and do not have a reliable picture or book to verify my information.

This picture also gives a real life representation of the pin count on a RJ-45 end.

T568B Pin-Out:

Default User Name and Passwords

I have to add this web site to my blog because sometimes when I'm in a hurry I cannot find this web site.

This is the web site that will tell you the default user name and passwords for a large number of makes and models of switches, routers and modems.

http://www.phenoelit-us.org/dpl/dpl.html

This web site's information has saved me a ton of hair loss and it had to be added to my blog.

To the creator/creators of this wonderment....

THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH.

I hope this never disappears from the World Wide Web.

Telephone (Biscuit) Jack Wiring for Ethernet

Sometimes when creating a data run you don't have the luxury to install face plates and Cat5 Cap stones for an inside run. You can still create an Ethernet point with a Cat5 surface mount telephone jack that you can mount on the outside of the wall without having to cut extra holes or having to run conduit.

This is generally done post construction for an extension of the central demarcation point for anything such as a T1 smart jack, cable modem, patch panel, switch, or router.

First you have to use a standard straight through cable from the demarcation point. The pin out of this has been mentioned before, but I'll show it again here to save some time:

RJ-45 Cat5e Standard Straight Through Pin Out:
Make sure the clip end is facing down and the pins will go from left to right Pin 1 - Pin 8. The gold leads in this picture should be facing you.

This will be the business end for the cable that will plug into the smart jack or whatever you are starting the run from. The other end of this cable will be wired up in the Telephone Jack.

The first picture of the jack is the common color layout of a Cat5 Telephone jack yours could be different depending on the manufacturer. What is really important is what is shown in the second picture. That is what you want your end product to look like:

Cat5 Telephone Jack (Before):






COLORS VARY BASED ON MANUFACTURER

The top end of this jack is where the Ethernet cable will plug into to connecting the demarcation point to the end device.









Cat5 Telephone Jack (After):





This is the pin out for how it should be connected.

So if using the colors from the picture above you would connect your Orange/White wire to the Blue wired pin and so on.











Once you have completed connecting all the wires together you should test for continuity with a LAN tracker before mounting and closing up the biscuit to save yourself some time and heartache if anything should not work out correctly.

JS

Bridged Modem's

This is a general real world explination of a bridged modem. I am not going to bore anyone with the specifics of data transfer and bit rates on a bridged modem compared to a routed modem.

When you run into a modem that the ISP has stated is in bridged mode you have two options.

The first option is to reset it to DHCP or routing mode. Usually the modem is in bridged mode for a reason so resetting it to route mode is not an option.

The second option is to get all of the information for the modem that you can.

A bridged modem is a modem that will connect two separate parts of your network together. More times than not it is a link between the outside and your router. The modem has a static IP address and this address is set up in your router configuration creating a bridge between the public and private address on the network.

The information you needed from your ISP will be the IP Address, Subnet, Gateway, and sometimes the DNS server. DNS will depend on your network set up, but it is usefull to have the ISP DNS information just in case.

A username and password for the modem is also helpful just in case you need to modem configurations. Some companies will give you this information freely. Other companies though will not give you the user name and password to the modem unless you purchase the modem and line directly from them.

Every company is different, but it does not hurt to ask...

If you connect your laptop directly to the modem and try to surf the internet you will see very quickly that you cannot get out. That is because you will have to set a static IP on the network connection. This is the information that you requested from the ISP earlier.

Once you set the IP, Subnet and Gateway you should then be able to surf the net.

Use the gateway address as your entry into the modem by entering it into your web browser and you will be prompted for the modems user name and password.

Some Verizon and Embarq ISP modems (Westell 6100 series) will use the admin, 1234 user name and password scheme, but it is rare. Usually they are set to a company specific user name and password scheme like youcompany@att.dsl.net. They all are different.

Commercial NID Splitter Installation

There are multiple ways to install a NID splitter, but they all come down to the same thing. You want to separate the Voice, Data, and Network signals.

Sometimes there is static on the phone line or the fax machine will knock off the DSL connection among a host of other things that could confirm a reason to installing a NID Splitter.

I am using a scenario that involves a generic 66 block that you find on most Demarks, a Suttle Outdoor NID Splitter and a 4 post telephone jack or biscuit.

First thing you need to do is find the circuit that the DSL line is sharing. Sometimes it's marked and sometimes it is not. That is when you need a butt set to test the circuit. Connect your alligator clips to the 66 Block and get a drop tone and verify the circuit by calling 1-800-444-4444. This number will spit back the phone number MCI sees on their end.

If you are on the correct circuit and there is no dial tone verify with the Internet Service Provider (ISP) that you are not using dry loop DSL. If you are using a dry loop DSL there should be no reason to install a splitter, but I've seen crazier things happen.

Please take a look at my other posting on how to make a homemade Lineman's head set or butt set in one of my earlier posts if you don't have one or yours is out of commission for the moment.

Once you find the circuit take a look at how it is being used. It could be used for just the main land line or possibly the fax line. Then you will want to run this first to your voice side in the splitter all the way down to the biscuit.

Verify that you have connectivity at the splitter on the Voice Posts with another phone or your butt set. This way you know you are getting an electrical current all the way from start to finish.

After that it is all down hill. Connect a run from the 66 block to the Data posts and connect your last run from the 66 block down to the network posts.

Below is a picture of one type of proper split set up.
I hope this makes some sense to those reading. It looked much better when I created it...

The 66 Block is labeled. The NID is between the two with the 6 posts on it. Those are the Network, Voice and Data posts.

Row 1 Column 2 on the 66 Block is using a Blue and White cable and Row 1 Column 3 is using an Orange and White cable. Row 2 Column 2 is using a solid Blue cable and Row 2 Column 3 is using a solid Orange cable. (Just for clarification)

The color of the cable DOES NOT MATTER. Just keep them the same for simplicity and future use. Make sure you label the jacks if they were not before. Remember this is just ONE of many ways to install a NID Splitter. It all depends on the situation presented to you at time of install.

JS